Northern Mountain Sport / Blog / Summer 2017 Diary & Mont Blanc Ski

Summer 2017 Diary & Mont Blanc Ski

Summer Alpine Season 2017

The following is a list of routes (images below) climbed both personally and professionally. Hopefully this will give an overview of recent conditions, particularly in the Mont Blanc massif.

June 2017

Contamine Route TD, Pointe Lachenal (ski in/out)

Gouter Ridge of Mont Blanc PD

Lepiney Route TD, Trident du Tacul

Cache Cache ED, Pointe Adolphe Rey

Les Lepidopteres D and Breche 3043m Peigne

East Ridge Pyramid du Tacul AD+

Goulotte Chere TD to summit Mont Blanc du Tacul (currently in very poor condition, 1st two pitches dry and melted out)

Forbes Arete AD Aiguille de Chardonnet (descent serious and icy, stonefall danger)

South Ridge D+ Aigulle Purtscheller

L'Opium du Peuple (TD), Pointe d'Orient, Envers des Aiguillles

Attempt on Aiguille de la Republique D+, Envers des Aiguillles

East Ridge Punta Udine AD, Cottain Alps

East Ridge Monte Viso AD, Cottain Alps (crampons needed in upper half)

July 2017

South Pillar TD, Croix de Fer, Chaîne de Fiz

Ni dieu ni maitre ED, Croix de Fer, Chaîne de Fiz

Traverse of the Aiguille d'Entreves PD+/AD

SE Arete of the Tour Ronde AD (Voie Normale very poor)

Vento Polaire 6A (rock climbing @ Dalmazzi)

Creazione Svestite & Kiora Pillar (rock climbing @ Dalmazzi)

Preuss route AD+ Aiguille de Savoie (high approach good)

Hey Man 5C (parete tei titani)

via Torrioni D+ on the Punta Venezia (Cottain Alps)

Diedre Raffi - Rattazzini TD Punta Udine (Cottain Alps)

La Fessura (Punta Udine) 6B (Cottain Alps)

Ottoz Route TD- Aiguille Croux the second "Ottoz" route this year! Magnificent.

Aiguille de Rochefort by the Rochefort Arete AD I think the approach will dry out now unless we have more snow & temperature drop (and become dry/loose). I put a track in from the 'down climb/lower'. Needs to cool down & snow again.

August 2017

Matterhorn by the Hornli Ridge AD currently good conditions

Traverse of the Crochues PD+

Cresta Perotti AD on the Punta Venezia (Cottain Alps) - client's led

Cresta Roma AD traverse of the Udine and Roma,(Cottain Alps) - 'it goes on a bit!'

Cresta Est AD on the Punta Udine (Cottain Alps)

Traverse of the Kleine & Gross Simelistock 4B (AD) - just wonderful, Bernese Oberland

Traverse of the Eigerjoch AD (1st peak only) - a recce to assess the South Ridge of the Eiger, too snowy. Bernese Oberland

Traverse of the SW & NW ridges of the Monch (both AD) Bernese Oberland

Grunegghorn PD+ Bernese Oberland

Eperon des Minettes (Peigne) D 5C wonderful alternative to the Papillons

Voie Normale Aiguille du Peigne AD a typical Chamonix AD, full rack and rockboots helpful. Classic.

Arete Laurent PD

Eiger Traverse via the Mittellegi Ridge D very good conditions at the moment

Traverse of the Aiguilles Crochues PD+

Aiguille Marbrée PD

Aiguille d'Entreves AD

September 2017

Arete de Doigt D 5C+, A0, Pointe Percee, Aravis

Gouter Ridge of Mont Blanc PD Grand Couloir in good condition

Matterhorn by the Hornli Ridge AD Crampons needed above Solvay but pretty good (8/9/17)

And that's it for the main summer season this year. I'm personally finishing early to have an operation so will be out of action until November when I resume work in Antarctica.

We are now taking bookings for the following adventure ski trips:

Ski Mont Blanc (June 10 - 15 2018).

Greenland Ski & Sail (May 2018) FULL

We are going to Alaska in Spring 2019, please get in touch to register interest! This will be a road trip and unmanned hut ski tour. You must have skied with us before. We may have spaces for exploratory mountaineering also?

We are always interested in out of season projects at home in the Alps or abroad - Jorasses, Couloirs, Sunny Rock, the list is endless.

Other dates are always available with our colleagues.


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1 % for the planet 1% for the planet 1st Pointe des Nantillons 4000m peaks Aiguile Chardonnet Aiguille d'Argentiere Aiguille d'Entreves Aiguille d'Orny Aiguille de Bionnassay Aiguille de Chardonnet Aiguille de l'M Aiguille de la Berangere Aiguille des Pelerins Aiguille Dibona Aiguille du Chardonnet Aiguille du Tour Aiguille Entreves Aiguille Marbrees Aiguille Noire de Peutery Aiguille Verte Aiguilles Rouges Aiguillette d'Argentiere Aigulle de Roc Alaska Alexandre Buisse Alpine Climbing alpine climbing alpine course Alpine Peaks alpine training Alpine training alpinism Alps alps Antarctic Peninsula Antarctica Antartic Peninsula Aouille Tseuque Arctic Arete de Fleche Rousse Arete de la Table Arete de Marion argentiere glacier Argentiere Rive Droite Arolla Aurland avalanche courses avalanche training Ayas Hut Balmenhorn Barre des Ecrins bearded vulture Bec Rond Beginner Routes Alps Ben Nevis Benevolo Bernese Oberland Bettembourg Route Beyond Good and Evil Bezzi Refuge Bienvenue au George V BMC Lectures BMC Winter Lectures Bonatti bouldering Bowden Breche de Berarde Breithorn Breithorn Traverse Brevent Brouillard Burnier-Vogler Gully Cabane Brunet Carrington Rouse cascade de lillaz Castor Cevedale chamonix Chamonix Chamonix granite Chamonix Guide chamonix rock climbing Chamonix rock climbing Chamonix ski Chamonix to Sixt ski tour Chamonix to Zermatt Chapelle de Gliere Chardonnet Charlet Bettembourg Children l'integrale Children of the Moon Chivasso Refuge Claire Chazal climbing cogne Cogne col de Belvedere col de Beugeant Col de Gebroulaz col de Tacul Col des Chasseurs Col des Glaciers Colton Brooks conditions Congo Star Conscrits hut Contamine Grisolle Corno Nero Corsica Cosmique Arete Cosmiques Arete Couturier Couloir Cresta del Soldata Cresta Sella Crochue Berard Traverse crochues traverse video cuillin ridge cuillin traverse CWA training CWA Training Dent Blanche Dent de Geant Dent du Geant Domes de Miage Domes de Miage Bionassay traverse Drake Passage Droites dry tooling Dufourspitze Dun Mingulay easy alpine peaks Ecrins Envers des Aiguilles Envers Hut Escarra Escarra Coulouir Ex libris Finsteraarhorn Fleche Rousse Ridge Fond Refuge Forbes Arete Gebroulaz Gebroulaz Glacier Gervasutti Coulouir Glacier d'Armencette glacier de Periades glacier de toule Glacier de Toule Glencoe Gonella Hut Gran Paradiso Gran Paradiso Haute Route Gran Paradiso North Face Gran Paradiso Ski Tour Gran Vaudala Grand Bleu Grand Capucin Grand Saint Bernard Hospice Grand Saint Bernard Monastary Grand Saint Bernard Monastery Grand Saint Bernard Pass Grand St Bernard Monastery Greenland Greenland sail Greenland ski Grenzgletscher Grunegghorn Gudvangen Guide Harold and Maud Haute Route heli skiing ice Ice Climbing ice climbing Ice is Nice Il Naso Inadvertance Innominata Ridge Island Peak Italian High Level Route Kathmandu Kichatna Spires L'Index La Giettaz Laerdal Lammeren Hut lammergeier Laratoune Le Bettex Le Fayet Le Fil a Plomb les calanques Les Contamines Les Houches Lochnagar Ludwigshohe Lyngen Lyskamm Madier Route Margherita Hut Megeve Menegaux Route Mer de Glace Face of the Grepon Mera Peak Midi Plan Arete Migot Spur Mingulay mixed climbing ML MLTA MLTE Courses Monch Mont Blanc Mont Blanc courses Mont Fourchon Mont Rogneux Montagne des Agneaux Monte Rosa Monte Rosa Hut Monte Viso Monviso morgiou mountain conditions Mountain Guide mountain guide mountain leader courses Mountain Medicine mountain training Mt Blanc Nepal NGB's No Country for Old Men north face of the matterhorn North Ridge Dome de Gouter Norway Norway Ice Climbing Nuit Blanche Ober Gabelhorn Oberland off piste Off Piste off piste skiing Off Piste Skiing off-piste skiing Oggioni old man of stoer one percent for the planet Ortler Pabbay Pain de Sucre Pain de Sucre de Mont Tondu Pappillons Arete Parrotspitze Pas de Chevre Pellisier Gully Petit Croise Baulet Peutery Integral Pic Coolidge Pigne d'Arolla Piola Pointe Adolphe Rey Pointe de Blonniere Pointe Lachenal Pollux Punta Calabre Queyras Quintino Sella Hut Rebuffat Rebuffat route Red Pillar Refuge d'Argentiere Refuge de la Valette Ressac Robert Blanc Hut Roc de la Peche Rochefort Arete rock climbing rock climbing courses rock climbing in Chamonix Roi de Siam Rond Glacier Saas Gruund sail Salluard Route Scheideggwetterhorn Schmid route Scottish Ski Touring Scottish Winter Climbing Scottish Winter Skills Seltunfossen Senja Shewry Peak Silvretta Silvretta ski tour ski ski and sail Ski Antarctica ski Creag Meaghaidh ski Mont Blanc Ski Mont Blanc ski Monte Rosa ski mountaineering ski mountainering ski Mt Blanc ski sail trip ski tour ski touring Ski Touring ski touring at Grand St Bernard Monastery ski touring in Chamonix skiing Skiing skye Slav Route Snow and Rock Southern Highlands SPA spa spa courses spaghetti tour Spaghetti Tour St Gervais Table de Roc Ridge Tacul Triangle the Shield Direct Tim Blakemore tim blakemore Torino Hut Torridon Tour de Ciel Tour des Glaciers Tour Ronde Tour Ronde North Face Tromso Val d'Orco Val Thorens Vallee Blanche Valley Blanche Vanoise Vanoise Ski Touring Vent de Dragon Vettisfossen video Vincent Pyramid Voldafossen Weissmies West Pillar of the Scheideggwetterhorn Western Oberland WGL WGL Assessment WGL Training Winter winter climbing Winter Skills Zermatt Zermatt Zinal Ski Zinal Rothorn Zumsteinspitze


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